I have problem with 97 Eldo, hot air from drivers vents cold from Pass vents. 97 Service manual covers Deville, Eldorado & Seville. Got code DTC 1340 Air Mix Door 1 failure. Air mix doors are behind Glove box ( 6 screws & 3 elect plugs. Top actuator is # 2 bottom is # 1 unsnap rod from arm & move the arm to end of travel & check with A/C running. Also you can run temp up & down & watch actuators for movement.
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1996 Eldorado - HVAC blend door problems
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1999 STS rear level control
Hey guys,
First off i am new to Cadillac forum, so hello. needing a little guidance or advice. my parents recently picked up a 99 sts with 80k miles. my dad had me take it into a shop today for a coolant flush, well after driving it today the coolant temp gauge moves around very erratically. it will shoot up like its getting hot then return back to the middle which is where it had stayed the whole trip home. when i pulled into my drive way i let the car idle for a min and watched the temp gauge. it was bouncing around a little. then it pegged completely on the hot side and warnings came up everywhere for about 1 sec. then returned to the middle line on the temp. car doesn't seem to be over heating. do you guys think this is head gaskets or is it most likely a faulty gauge or sensor or air in the system? whats the best way to eliminate things?
second, the rear end of the car is sitting really high like a dragster. looks pretty funny. the air compressor kicks on every time when the key is cycled for about 5-10 sec. its almost like its not letting air outta the shocks. any suggestions on what to check? some kind of valve or something and where is it located? it looks like factory shocks. and there is no dtc codes when checked for the air ride.
any info is appreciated! thanks!
First off i am new to Cadillac forum, so hello. needing a little guidance or advice. my parents recently picked up a 99 sts with 80k miles. my dad had me take it into a shop today for a coolant flush, well after driving it today the coolant temp gauge moves around very erratically. it will shoot up like its getting hot then return back to the middle which is where it had stayed the whole trip home. when i pulled into my drive way i let the car idle for a min and watched the temp gauge. it was bouncing around a little. then it pegged completely on the hot side and warnings came up everywhere for about 1 sec. then returned to the middle line on the temp. car doesn't seem to be over heating. do you guys think this is head gaskets or is it most likely a faulty gauge or sensor or air in the system? whats the best way to eliminate things?
second, the rear end of the car is sitting really high like a dragster. looks pretty funny. the air compressor kicks on every time when the key is cycled for about 5-10 sec. its almost like its not letting air outta the shocks. any suggestions on what to check? some kind of valve or something and where is it located? it looks like factory shocks. and there is no dtc codes when checked for the air ride.
any info is appreciated! thanks!
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Purchased a 2001 STS - suspension questions
Hello all,
Great forums. I am buy no means a mechanic, but do have some tools and am good with my hands. All that is missing is a little knowledge, that you members graciously have supplied.
I picked up a 2001 Cadillac Seville STS for my 17 year old. It has high mileage (170K), but was very clean and for an inexperienced driver should be nice and safe for when he runs into something with it ;)
It however has had some problems, but between researching codes and these forums I have been able to fix allot of the problems. I have had to replace the Throttle Position Sensor, which is very easy to do. Then I was also getting codes for the Mass Air flow sensor. I replaced it, but the car would still occasionally stall and throw the code, especially when going around corners. After perusing these forums I started looking into it again, and someone mentioned cleaning the sensor. Figured can't hurt since the problem is intermittent and I was beginning to pull my hair out. Took the sensor out and noticed that one of the wires for the sensor was worn. Just touched it and it finally broke! Replaced the wiring harness and the engine has been running smooth ever since. :cool:
It does need a new wheel bearing and the breaks were pulsing really bad when depressed. Also intermittently the Service Stability System light message is displayed along with the ABS and TC lights. I figured it was from the bad bearing. I started to work on replacing the wheel hub assembly. It sounded like a right rear to me, but everything I read online said that most of the time the fronts go. Also my 17 year old (who has much better hearing than I do) said it sounded like the front right was where it was coming from. I did try checking each wheel for play by grabbing at 9 and 3 o'clock and 12 and 6 o'clock per the forums. Both wheels did not have any play that I could notice. SO against my better judgment I purchased the front right wheel hub assembly, new front and rear pads, and all new rotors.
I got everything replaced and working and took it for a test drive. Breaks are nice and smooth and working great. Jumped up on the expressway to see if the sound and vibration from the bad bearing was gone.....DOH!:banghead: It is still there and still sounds like the right rear!!!! Plus now the Service Stability System message, TC, and ABS lights are always on after starting. I did check for codes, but they were all history. (mostly from disconnecting the sensor to change the wheel hub assembly. Turned the car on a few times to turn the wheel to get some more room to work). Now that my mini-novel is almost complete, I do have a question.
Can the vibrations from a bad wheel bearing cause the Service Stability System, TC, and ABS lights to come on, or could it be a bad sensor on another wheel assembly? The right rear is getting replaced no matter what, but If I have to replace a third wheel hub assembly because of a bad sensor I might as well just replace the last one while I am at it, or is there any way to test the sensors (I do have a multi-meter, just don't know what the readings should be). Any input from you almighty gurus is appreciated.
Once again, GREAT FORUMS!!!
Great forums. I am buy no means a mechanic, but do have some tools and am good with my hands. All that is missing is a little knowledge, that you members graciously have supplied.
I picked up a 2001 Cadillac Seville STS for my 17 year old. It has high mileage (170K), but was very clean and for an inexperienced driver should be nice and safe for when he runs into something with it ;)
It however has had some problems, but between researching codes and these forums I have been able to fix allot of the problems. I have had to replace the Throttle Position Sensor, which is very easy to do. Then I was also getting codes for the Mass Air flow sensor. I replaced it, but the car would still occasionally stall and throw the code, especially when going around corners. After perusing these forums I started looking into it again, and someone mentioned cleaning the sensor. Figured can't hurt since the problem is intermittent and I was beginning to pull my hair out. Took the sensor out and noticed that one of the wires for the sensor was worn. Just touched it and it finally broke! Replaced the wiring harness and the engine has been running smooth ever since. :cool:
It does need a new wheel bearing and the breaks were pulsing really bad when depressed. Also intermittently the Service Stability System light message is displayed along with the ABS and TC lights. I figured it was from the bad bearing. I started to work on replacing the wheel hub assembly. It sounded like a right rear to me, but everything I read online said that most of the time the fronts go. Also my 17 year old (who has much better hearing than I do) said it sounded like the front right was where it was coming from. I did try checking each wheel for play by grabbing at 9 and 3 o'clock and 12 and 6 o'clock per the forums. Both wheels did not have any play that I could notice. SO against my better judgment I purchased the front right wheel hub assembly, new front and rear pads, and all new rotors.
I got everything replaced and working and took it for a test drive. Breaks are nice and smooth and working great. Jumped up on the expressway to see if the sound and vibration from the bad bearing was gone.....DOH!:banghead: It is still there and still sounds like the right rear!!!! Plus now the Service Stability System message, TC, and ABS lights are always on after starting. I did check for codes, but they were all history. (mostly from disconnecting the sensor to change the wheel hub assembly. Turned the car on a few times to turn the wheel to get some more room to work). Now that my mini-novel is almost complete, I do have a question.
Can the vibrations from a bad wheel bearing cause the Service Stability System, TC, and ABS lights to come on, or could it be a bad sensor on another wheel assembly? The right rear is getting replaced no matter what, but If I have to replace a third wheel hub assembly because of a bad sensor I might as well just replace the last one while I am at it, or is there any way to test the sensors (I do have a multi-meter, just don't know what the readings should be). Any input from you almighty gurus is appreciated.
Once again, GREAT FORUMS!!!
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body control module - 1990 Eldorado
I have a 1990 Cadillac Eldorado I cant seem to get the centennial to work ive replaced all the fuses . The headlight switch . Does the body control module have any effect on it and if so where is it located and how can I remove and replace it
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2002 Seville HVAC blower help
2002 sts approx. 80k miles. Blower motor runs when it wants to. Doesn't matter if in auto mode or manual mode. Compressor kicks in like it should but only on occasion does the blower fan come on. Rear fan works manually like should. All the door actuators seem to be directing air properly...just no volume. Checked codes and came up with several u1255 Class 2 communications fault....u1301 class 2 short to battery....1340 air mix door movement fault. Several others that I'll deal with in another thread. When blower does come on...everything seems peachy. then next key cycle and nothing...???? Driving my mother in law nuts which in turn she drives me nuts. All help appreciated. Darrell
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Turn signal flasher
I have recently bought a 2002 Eldorado(only 40,000 miles) the only problem so far is the left turn flashes about three times faster than the right. I bought a flasher but can't find where it goes, I pulled the lower panels off but can't see it. It sounds like it is directly behind the headlight panel but no way to get to it from underneath. I figured I better leave it alone and see if someone on the forum can help.:hmm:
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Interior lights not working when doors are opened
When I open the doors on my 96 Eldorado the lights don't come on, they do work if you twist the knob and turn them on manually. Maybe 4 or 5 times in the past year they have come on when the door is opened which makes me think there is some type of electrical problem. All of the interior lights work when turned on manually.
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Tie rod end with grease nipple? Better than sealed?
My 2001 STS just needed a new outer tie rod end. The shop put one in with a grease nipple. (KSF brand)
Should this concern me? The original GM one was sealed (so I never had to do any greasing), but now I have to start greasing every 6 months.
Is a greasable joint BETTER than sealed? Is KSF a good brand?
Thanks!
Should this concern me? The original GM one was sealed (so I never had to do any greasing), but now I have to start greasing every 6 months.
Is a greasable joint BETTER than sealed? Is KSF a good brand?
Thanks!
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2001 STS will not start and rear light bulbs out
Hi
I noticed that one of my lights were out on the Left side trunk light the 1157 Lamp. I had no Volts to light. Looking further I see that by the Licence Plate light socket one wire
was burnt. It is the Purple wire it has a Sleve over the wire and there seems to be a bump in middle of the wire.The hole sleve burnt up.What is that in line sleve for.there is also one on the left side around the Brown wire.
Can You Buy this and is it needed?
Now I try to start car and all lights work but motor does not start.
Thank You
Pete
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Hi
I also see a Yelllow Strip going down the Sleve.
I noticed that one of my lights were out on the Left side trunk light the 1157 Lamp. I had no Volts to light. Looking further I see that by the Licence Plate light socket one wire
was burnt. It is the Purple wire it has a Sleve over the wire and there seems to be a bump in middle of the wire.The hole sleve burnt up.What is that in line sleve for.there is also one on the left side around the Brown wire.
Can You Buy this and is it needed?
Now I try to start car and all lights work but motor does not start.
Thank You
Pete
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Hi
I also see a Yelllow Strip going down the Sleve.
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4.9 Heating Up?
Hey again everyone. I drove my Eldorado about 50 miles today and only stopped one time at an ice cream stand and that was it. I always check the temperature gauge and I glanced down at it as I was turning on to my street and it read 230 degrees. I shut off the motor and drifted it down my street and into my driveway to avoid any possible damage. The car always reaches 224 degrees and then cools down. Why is it getting that hot? It is 89 degrees outside and the air conditioner was running the whole time. I opened the hood and the coolant was bubbling into the reservoir and was almost to the top. Now it has settled down to the hot mark. I am afraid to drive it again without finding the source of the problem. It did the very same thing 2 months ago. I shut the car off where it was at, left it cool for 1/2 and hour and drove it home with no air conditioning on and everything was fine since then. The gaskets, water pump, coolant, and thermostat are all less than 3 months old. After the incident today, I waited 15 minutes and turned the key on and it still read 230 degrees. I started the car and the fans came on right away and cooled it down quickly. Do I have some kind of electrical problem with the fans?
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P1545 Code AC clutch circuit
Is there a way to check the BCM without a scan tool at the dealer. I jumped the clutch and it engages so it is something in the circuit. I was hoping I didn't have to take in to the dealer.
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The AC control panel works and the fan blows but the clutch does not engage.
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The AC control panel works and the fan blows but the clutch does not engage.
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evap temps
been reading about a/c issues for a long time. my vent temps are so-so. evap outlet under hood is ice cold. almost frosty. vent/dash/floor vents are all the same. kinda cold. certainly not icy. i took off glove box and checked blend door linkage. adjusting temp from cold/hot cycles linkage from full open to full closed. no in between. is this normal with motor off but key on? i assume linkage moves in increments when motor is running? i thought perhaps blend door is not fully closed with a/c on? did not try it with motor running
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Power Window Switch
Driver side window button started acting up three weeks ago. Started cutting out going up but would resume functioning. Never a problem down. Last week I couldn't get it to close so I took the control out and unplugged the switch and reinstalled it. Passenger side perfect, no up in driver side. Ordered one from RockAuto. Put it in today and nothing different. No driver up, passenger good. Put the old one back in and played around a little and the window activated up in spurts, not every time. Got it closed and tried the down mode and it was perfect. Took a while to get it to close again. I'll leave it up, if I can remember. Like sporadic contact somewhere.(but not the switch because the new one did the same thing) Where do I look now?
Kent
Kent
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Head gasket question
Okay, so my stupid brother absolutely insists that I CAN change my head gasket(s) without removing the engine. (97'Eldorado.) When I tell him that, no, I can't he says, "Which gasket is it? Do you even know?" No, I don't. And he says, well, you should find out before you decide that you can't do it. Soooo, now if I don't find out, he will ride me about it for the rest of my natural life, and probably later, after he dies and comes back to haunt me, stupid brother. So can anyone tell me how I might go about finding out which head gasket is bad, assuming ignorance of engines, but handiness with tools? Would it have to do with checking the spark plugs? Thank you for your time. (And actually he's really smart and great with mechanical stuff, he's just a gigantic PITA, which is what makes him a "stupid" brother.)
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1976 Seville climate control help please ...
Hi everyone, I'm not on here much (sm. biz owner), so I appreciate any help I can get. Thanks in advance.
I could use some help with the climate control on a 1976 Seville with a well massaged 454 chevy, low vacuum (enough to run the brake booster). I have it all connected properly (as best I can tell), but the controls give an unexpected output. If I want heat, I have to go to a cold temp, and then heat will come out the vents. It's impossible to get it out the lower vents unless I set the temp to 85 or so but then it's cold, not hot. The doors do seem to set the proper output (upper-vents/lower-vents), but the temp is way out of whack, almost reversed.
I really don't know anything about these climate controls, I do have the shop & body manual for the car, but it is a very complicated system to the novice, and I am at a bit of a loss in turning all that info into a solution to my problem.
If anyone could help me get started on chasing this down, I'd be very grateful.
Marc
I could use some help with the climate control on a 1976 Seville with a well massaged 454 chevy, low vacuum (enough to run the brake booster). I have it all connected properly (as best I can tell), but the controls give an unexpected output. If I want heat, I have to go to a cold temp, and then heat will come out the vents. It's impossible to get it out the lower vents unless I set the temp to 85 or so but then it's cold, not hot. The doors do seem to set the proper output (upper-vents/lower-vents), but the temp is way out of whack, almost reversed.
I really don't know anything about these climate controls, I do have the shop & body manual for the car, but it is a very complicated system to the novice, and I am at a bit of a loss in turning all that info into a solution to my problem.
If anyone could help me get started on chasing this down, I'd be very grateful.
Marc
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oil pressure switch
I was wondering how I go about changing this?? Any special tools needed??
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o2 sensor change
I have to change an o2 sensor tomorrow o was wondering if they're a bitch to do or what?? I believe the one I gotta change is bank 2 sensor 1....
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Any special tools needed??
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Any special tools needed??
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How can I reset or clear the garage door opener on my 2001 STS?
The title says it all. I need to clear the current code.
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2004 SLS P0717 - ISS sensor need help with finding location.
im trying to change input speed sensor and need to know if i have to drop the whole tranny to get to the sensor. i have already taken off crank case and still cant see it. can anyone please give me a diagram possible on this issue.. dont have the cash to take it to a shop so must do it my self thanks for all the help.mike
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98 Seville upper transaxle cooling line
I am in the process of installing the transaxle cooling line that goes from the top driver's side of the radiator to the firewall side of the transaxle just behind the exhaust manifold. (The engine is out.)
The one I removed was routed under the transmission case and up to the radiator connection. I ordered what I thought was the replacement part from Rock Auto and the two are not the same. The new one is configured so it routes over the top of the transmission case just in front of the main wiring harness.
It appear to about the right length and position to still connect to the radiator in the proper place, but I don't want to install it and the engine only to find that it doesn't fit properly.
Does anyone know if Cadillac changed the configuration of this part sometime and if the new part will work? I have looked through the technical bulletins in the FSM but found nothing.
The parts diagram from which I found the part number to order shows it routed under the transmission case like the original one.
Does anyone have any input?
Thanks
The one I removed was routed under the transmission case and up to the radiator connection. I ordered what I thought was the replacement part from Rock Auto and the two are not the same. The new one is configured so it routes over the top of the transmission case just in front of the main wiring harness.
It appear to about the right length and position to still connect to the radiator in the proper place, but I don't want to install it and the engine only to find that it doesn't fit properly.
Does anyone know if Cadillac changed the configuration of this part sometime and if the new part will work? I have looked through the technical bulletins in the FSM but found nothing.
The parts diagram from which I found the part number to order shows it routed under the transmission case like the original one.
Does anyone have any input?
Thanks
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